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01 November 2004
Two questions for scientists
I have nothing to tell you at the moment. But I do have something to ask you, if you happen to have the scientific knowledge to answer my questions. The first question involves physics and arises from cookery. The second involves entomology and arises solely from my morbid curiosity.
1. The Case of the Catastrophically Collapsing Alioli
A few weeks ago I was cooking for guests. Spanish and Catalan dishes were on the menu, so of course I thought to serve alioli among the starters. If you don't know what this is, it is a garlic mayonnaise; the southern French make something very similar with an almost identical name. Indeed, I was cheating: the recipe I followed was for the Provençal aïoli rather than the Iberian alioli. You will find a recipe (not the one I used) here.
I followed the recipe precisely. I made the stuff in a mixer. This is no shoddy 1970s Soviet mixer either; it is a muscular and aggressive KitchenAid machine from America. I very slowly poured a thin stream of olive oil through the hole at the top. The alioli thickened nicely; so much so that the machine's motor began to struggle audibly. But just as I had poured in almost all the oil the recipe demands, the alioli collapsed. Literally: it fell in on itself, all thickness gone. It had, in the space of a moment, become a liquid only as thick as the oil itself had been.
As a a would-be alioli maker, I was deeply annoyed. (It was only a minor annoyance; the jamón pata negra and olives, not to mention a pretty good manzanilla, kept the beasts peaceful until the second course.) As an objective observer, though, I was fascinated. This was the coolest Strange Food Phenomenon I had seen since that one time I opened a very cold bottle of Coke only to watch it freeze visibly, as though caught in that awful ice storm from The Day After Tomorrow. (In that case, I presume the sudden release of pressure upon opening the bottle was sufficient to make the liquid's temperature drop below freezing.) But as for the collapsing alioli: what food physicist can tell me why this happened?
2. Alien vs. Caterpillar
We've all seen caterpillars that look as though they've been festooned with rice. (If you haven't, look here.)
That's not rice. These caterpillars have been parasitised by braconid wasps. Braconids are koinobiont endoparasitoids. Parasitoids are insects -- mostly wasps; a surprising number of flies; and a few representatives of other groups -- that develop in or on other arthropods, usually other insects (though spiders are often victims as well). Unlike parasites proper, parasitoids almost invariably kill their hosts. The hosts of koinobionts continue to live and develop for a time after parasitisation. (Idiobionts, by contrast, permanently paralyse their victims when the egg is laid.) Endoparasitoids develop inside the bodies of their hosts (ectoparasitoids, obviously, do so on the outside, with a bit stuck into their host for feeding). The aggressive creatures in the Alien series, in other words, are classic koinobiont endoparasitoids, as HCJ Godfray points out in his magisterial Parasitoids.
Now you are no doubt cocking a sceptical brow and thinking, If braconids are endoparasitoids, what's with the rice-like stuff? Well, those are cocoons, and that brings me to my question. Braconids develop inside the caterpillar, drinking its haemolymph ('blood', more or less). They avoid doing fatal damage, because this would be fatal to them as well. When they have done growing as larvae, they emerge through their host's skin (not a pretty sight), spin cocoons and pupate. The caterpillar goes on munching leaves, seemingly none the worse for wear.
It is, though. In fact, it is doomed. When the imagines (adult wasps) are ready to emerge, the caterpillar stops eating, goes off some place quiet so its killers can eclose in peace, and dies shortly thereafter. What bothers me is that I can't for the life of me figure out why.
Some parasitoids, just before emerging, go ahead and devour all the vital organs they have hitherto been careful to spare. So far as I know, though, braconids just drink haemolymph. And at the time they stop doing so, their host is still healthy, at least to outward appearance. I am not aware that the wasps continue to feed while in pupal form. I could understand that, when they have opened their cocoons and flown off, the holes from which they exited the host might be exposed, subjecting the caterpillar to dessication or infection -- but from that I'd expect a death rate that, while perhaps high, was not 100%. And yet they always die. Why? What is it that kills them, seeing that the parasitoids' feeding activities themselves apparently do not?
Posted by Mrs Tilton at 10:02 PM | Permalink
Comments
It sounds like your emulsion separated -- were there two phases? If that's what happened, perhaps you needed something like lecithin to stabilize it.
(I have nothing but guesses about the braconids.)
Posted by: sennoma at 1 Nov 2004 22:55:00
The alioli collapse sounds like a classical case of a phase transition of the sort studied in percolation theory. I assume that the alioli is an emulsion, consisting of tiny spheres of oil suspended in an egg matrix. As more oil is added, the spheres become more numerous, until they start to bump into each other and coalesce. Your blender's blades are constantly fragmenting the oil globules into smaller ones, but small globules are also randomly running into each other hard enough to break through the egg barrier and merge. The suspension can be maintained only as long as the oil content stays below some critical level; above that level there simply isn't enough egg to provide a strong skeleton for the emulsion.
The suddenness of the collapse is the part you really wanted me to explain, and I'm afraid I don't have a compelling answer. In fact, sudden phase transitions are the major surprising prediction of percolation theory; they occur in all kinds of similar systems; they are essentially statistical in nature, even though the macroscopic consequence is a discontinuity in behavior. Look up "percolation theory" in your favorite information source to learn more.
The exact critical point probably varies a lot depending on how fresh your egg is, with fresh eggs having more oil-suspending vigor. I might recommend the following recovery technique, which I warn you I have not tested. Pour off the failed alioli and set it aside. Open another egg, and put a fraction of it (less than half, I should think) into your blender. Spin it up. Begin adding the failed alioli, as if it were the original oil. If my suspicion is true, you ought to be able to rebuild the emulsion, and this time there should be enough egg to maintain it. You should be able to add the whole quantity of failed alioli; but don't push your luck by trying to add the rest of the oil.
If coagulation of the egg due to agitation in the blender is a factor, my technique will fail dismally: the proteins of the original egg have changed form irrecoverably, and the emulsion will not reconstitute. And I don't know how much coagulation may be a factor.
Posted by: ACW at 1 Nov 2004 23:54:33
Just a couple of empirical observations to ACW's response above. Firstly, the reconstitution method describes usually works for me, but I would advise adding the whole extra egg. Maybe I'm just a pessimist. Second, I suspect your problem may be that your blender is too powerful. I had an old one I used to make mayonnaise type sources for ten years with nary a failure. Then it died, and I bought a bright new replacement with blades that rotate faster than the turbines in a fighter jet. And my mayonnaise started collapsing; you could see it was going to - the egg didn't look right before starting to add the oil. I suspect the coagulation ACW refers to, but there's nothing to be done about it except to use a different mixer. It's a design fault by some techie who's never cooked anything more complicated than oven chips and doesn't understand the difference between shiny and quality.
Posted by: chris at 2 Nov 2004 11:22:25
Lecithin might have helped, though I'd have thought the egg a sufficient emulsifier. (In the old days, painters used eggs for this very purpose in mixing their colours.) At any rate, adding lecithin would have gone against my purist grain (even if it is one of those food additives that is Good For You). Maybe a few mashed braconids would have done the trick...
I'll bear the egg-to-the-rescue method in mind next time I try this. But first, I'll cut back on the oil; it's pretty clear that the amount of oil crossed some critical threshold beyond which the egg could no longer hold the mix together. (I couldn't see whether there was a layer of oil separated from a layer of egg-lemon-juice-and-garlic, BTW; but then, it's almost all oil anyway.) The steroid-gobbling blender probably didn't help, either; lowest setting next time round, and if that doesn't work I'll have to do it by hand.
Thanks for the tip on percolation theory. I'll have a look to see whether there's anything user-friednly on this on the web.
Posted by: Mrs Tilton at 2 Nov 2004 14:00:56
Allegedly it can be fixed with hot water also: http://www.hub-uk.com/tallyrecip02/recipe0077.htm
(But my dad always used the extra egg technique with mayonnaise.)
The scientistes may enjoy this accessible pdf:
http://www.iop.org/EJ/article/0031-9120/39/1/001/pe4_1_001.pdf
Posted by: des at 2 Nov 2004 14:29:27
Allegedly it can be fixed with hot water also: http://www.hub-uk.com/tallyrecip02/recipe0077.htm
(But my dad always used the extra egg technique with mayonnaise.)
The scientistes may enjoy this accessible pdf:
http://www.iop.org/EJ/article/0031-9120/39/1/001/pe4_1_001.pdf
Posted by: des at 2 Nov 2004 14:29:27
Sennorna, I believe that it is the phospholipids (e. g. lecithin) in the egg yolk that emulsifies the fat in mayonnaise/Hollandaise/Béarnaise and such. Thus, protein coagulation should not be a factor.
Posted by: Pastor Bentonit at 16 Nov 2004 12:39:56





